Hemmed seams are a good way to join two edges. There are also methods of joining metal without fasteners or brazing. Use a MAPP gas torch, brass brazing rods, and flux to heat the joint to braze and draw brass into the seam using capillary action. If rivets aren't your cup of tea, try brazing. Solid rivets are another option, but doming them in tight spaces can be an issue, hence the choice of pop rivets for this box. Just be sure to use a steady hand, the appropriate size hammer, and a rivet set if possible. Doming them with a ball peen hammer helps a lot. You actually can dress these rivets as well. Put the rivet in the hole you've drilled, and draw the mandrel through the rivet shank with a riveting tool. Then, your bit has a depression to hollow out and won't stray and scratch the work. Punch a dimple in the sheet metal before attempting to drill the pilot holes using an awl and mallet. POP rivets are a good alternative to spot welds. If you start in the middle of the work and work your way out to edges, you'll have more uniform results than moving from corner to corner. When spot welding, for instance, each spot weld causes the sheet to expand 360 degrees around the weld. Heat causes metal to expand and warp if you're not careful. S letter.jpg (178.Welding sheet metal isn't always the ideal way to join sheet-especially thin or non-ferrous sheet. Have to love Mach/Sheetcam/Candcnc for allowing upgrades like this. I winged the whole thing, and with the Dotco marker, ended up costing about $325.00 US. Looks better in person, but it's still a start. I have a little fine tuning, but it works pretty well. It was a post I already had running my Plasma (MP3000 DTHC II + Scriber) I did set one of the settings to false, to allow for only one check of the torch at first, and no movement until before the very last one. All the posts seem to trigger that # instead of the #3 like I thought. Les Newell wrote:Does it matter that it references the torch? Apart from the short time taken to reference it should not make any difference to the scribing or any later plasma cuts.įound out it does not really matter.
So the plasma z reference is not needed at all with my setup. I have valves to slow the stroke speed, but they are fully open and it work just fine. It could care less on air pressure on the slide for the most part. Just adjust the stroke adjustment ,and set a stop for travel. If I am doing thicker then 2 inch, then I will have a issue, but there are easy work a rounds for me. I have a Dotco scribe, and it seems like the perfect tool for my marking needs. I can add weight or a adjustable spring if I need more dig. Seem to work perfect with only the weight of the air scribe.
The scribe floats on it's own rail after the slide extends. So only offset is just the X and Y for the torch placement. after that, then the torch-to-scribe offset is used to locate the scribe. In order to operate the scribe at the correct height, my controller needs to touch-off the torch to find the correct height depending on the material thickness. I don't know how you can work this without moving the Z axis at all.Īll settings for my scribe's location are relative to the torch's location. PK wrote:I have my scribe mounted beside my torch.
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